DIY : Change a Door Handle

This is a very simple project. Even if there's nothing wrong with your doorknob, you might want to upgrade to one that's easier for people with disabilities to open.

Before you buy a doorknob, though, take off the old one and take it to the store for comparison. Also make sure you know whether your doorknob goes on the right or left side of the door. To remove the old knob and install the new, just follow below steps.

Materials:

Lock set with key and screws

Flathead or slot screwdriver

Power drill

Safety glasses

Steps:

1. The toughest part is getting the old doorknob off. If your doorknob has screws on the cover plates, remove those to loosen the old knob. If not, look for a slot on the side of the handle that has a little piece of metal sticking out. Then use the key from the new doorknob to push in on the metal -- that will make the doorknob pop loose (Figure A).

2. Pull off the doorknob to reveal the plate below. Look for a slot in the plate along the seam where it butts against the door. Wedge a slot (also known as flathead) screwdriver in the slot and then give the plate a half twist to pop it off.

3. With plate removed, you'll see the screws you should remove with a power drill (Figure B).

Safety Alert: Always wear safety eyewear when using a power drill.

4. Remove the old latch by taking out the screws with a power drill or screwdriver (Figure C).

5. Screw the new latch in, setting the screws by hand first and then tightening them with a power drill.

6. Place the knobs themselves, set the screws by hand, and finish by drilling. Don't overtighten the screws or you'll bind the doorknob.

7. Test the key and make sure the door locks properly.

Some Related Q & A :

Q: I'm painting the trim around my doors. Would it be easier with the doors off the hinges? How do I remove them?

A: It's a whole lot easier to paint with your doors off the hinges, and you should take your doorknobs off, too. There's a hinge pin running through the center of the hinge, which you should remove with an old screwdriver. Take all three hinges off and then carefully remove the door.

Q: My kids have caused damage by slamming the doorknob on the wall. How can I prevent this?

A: There are actually a couple of solutions. Try one of those springy doorstops that screw into the baseboard of the wall and keep the door from opening all the way and hitting the wall. There are also doorstop contraptions that attach to the top of the hinge pin, for places where you don't have a baseboard on the wall the door is hitting.

Q: My bedroom door is hard to close. I have to really slam it. Any suggestions for solving this problem?

A: That means the door is either too wide for the door opening itself, in which case you need to plane it, or that the latch plate is sticking out too far. Or it could mean that the strike plate needs to be adjusted.

TIPS About PVC-U Double Glazed Windows

About PVC-U Double Glazed Windows

This is an excellent, highly insulate material, which benefits from little or no external maintenance. It is readily available and well tested and is usually the lowest cost option of all three materials. It is mainly seen in white but also available in Mahogany and Oak woodgrain styles. PVCu is by far the most popular material for windows and doors today. There are many well-proven PVCu extrusions available. Problems with discoloration are virtually unheard of and most suppliers will warrant against this. The design of the windows varies from company to company. Here are a few of the main points. You may like to raise them with your supplier.

Internal or Externally glazed windows

Most PVCu systems will now give you this option. As a generalisation Internally beaded windows (where the glass is held in from the inside) are considered more secure and burglar resistant. That said there are a lot of satisfactory externally beaded PVCu systems about - many of which feature either internal wedge gaskets or a "double sided" tape which holds the external bead firmly in place. You should investigate this particular issue with your supplier.

Thickness of PVCu walling?

Most PVCu systems for window and door construction are "multi-walled" with internal reinforcement by means of either Aluminium or Galvanised Steel box section. Wall thickness can vary from system to system - most are around 3 - 3.5 mm thickness. Generally speaking the "thicker" the walling - the stronger the section. Ask your supplier for an example section and enquire if the frames are fully reinforced. Note also that the greater the number of internal walls - the greater the strength.

Depth or thickness of frame

Actual depth of frame extrusion varies from as low as 50 mm to a number at 70 mm and above. Most are in the 60 - 65 mm region. Clearly this does have an effect on the structural strength of your replacement window or door. This is especially worth bearing in mind when comparing prices. It would not for instance be fair to compare the price of a conservatory built using a 55 mm depth of frame with a window made using 70 mm depth of frame.

We bring the points above to your attention purely to give you a feel for the sort of questions you should ask a potential supplier. The above is by no means the whole story, and there will be varying arguments one way and the other.

Here is a short list of PVCu systems companies supplying extrusion for the manufacture of PVCu windows and doors in the UK. These include Rehau, Veka, Spectus and Synseal.

For some, however, PVCu lacks authenticity when it comes to the more traditional designs. It is not acceptable to planner for use on listed buildings and not popular with planners in conservation areas.

Coloured Frame Options

What colour do you want? You name it and today you can almost certainly get it. Standard colours for PVCu and aluminium are white, whilst for hardwood it is a natural stain option such as mahogany, walnut or light oak. You can, however, have hardwood already primed in green, cream and teak plus a whole host of options to your specification. PVCu in mahogany woodgrain and cherry oak woodgrain styles is also increasingly popular. Additionally, both PVCu and aluminium can be specially coloured in red, blue, green, black and orange! (and that's just a few of the options!)

The above only really touches the surface on some of the options available. Your supplier will be pleased to give you a more detailed specification.

This article is about PVC-U Windows (also referred to as upvc, pvcu and pvc windows). Other materials used for windows include Aluminium and Timber / Hardwood For more information on Double Glazed replacement windows visit Windows Today http://www.windowstoday.co.uk/ Buyers Tips - Top Design Tips In this section we introduce you to some very important but often overlooked issues when choosing window designs. Regrettably we find that quite often some aspects of window design are not discussed at the buying stage. These aspects can often turn out to be very important to the buyer.

One such issue is "equal sight lines"

When manufacturing most modern replacement windows it is normal for there to be smaller areas of glass wherever there are openings (sashes) fitted. Where the frames are fixed the glass area will be larger. This "unequal" site line is quite normal and acceptable to most people.

However on a lot of older properties (and indeed some newer ones) it was more common to have an equal sight line. (i.e. you would not be able to tell from the outside which windows opened and which did not.) Fitting "dummy sashes" or "dummy openers" into the frames created this "equal" sight line.

As you will see from the photographs above the windows can have a considerably different appearance dependant on whether or not they have equal sight lines.

Equal sight lines are not for everybody - indeed some will not like the overall "bulkier" appearance. However there is no doubt that for some types of property this will be a "better bet". It is also a very good alternative with Georgian and Leaded Light window designs as it allows you to have rectangles / squares that are more equal in size.

Having equal site lines adds to the overall cost of your replacement windows and for this reason many people do not favour this approach. That said -- it is still a worthwhile consideration in our opinion.

Another possible alternative is to consider having "vertical equal sight lines". With this approach fixed windows are always above fixed windows and opening windows are always above opening windows. Ask you suppliers for more information on this if this is unclear to you.

Another design issue that is often overlooked is whether to use black gaskets or white gaskets on your white PVCu windows.

Black coloured gaskets are the norm with most companies and are widely fitted. In the past white gaskets had not been favoured as it was not always possible to get a "matching" white and it was not also possible to offer a "colour fast" guarantee. This has now changed and more and more companies now offer both alternatives.

We feel white gaskets are a good alternative - especially on "panelled" doors.

This photograph shows a panelled door design with black gasket. It would have looked better with a white gasket.

An alternative to white gaskets are "low profile" black gaskets which are very slim and less obtrusive.

One disadvantage of white gaskets reported by some people is that the gasket will often appear grubby and show up the dust/dirt. This may be an important consideration is you live close to a major road network etc. (Or don't fancy cleaning too often!)

Whatever your choice we do especially recommend white gaskets on white PVCu panelled doors.

Consider your Neighbours

When replacing windows it is sometimes worth considering the effect of your changes on the overall appearance of the street or road where you live.

For instance if you and your neighbour both agree on a style for your windows the overall effect can be considerably better if you both agree to use similar designs. It doesn't matter if you both use the same company or even have the work done at the same time.

Sometimes using "conflicting" styles or designs "side by side" will spoil the appearance of the neighbourhood. As can be seen in the photograph below using similar designs on both of these porches has added to the visual appearance for these two neighbours.

TIPS to prevent flooding around the house

Actions to prevent flooding around the house

With global warming and the resulting climate changes, flooding is increasingly becoming a problem. Often the ordinary householder thinks there is nothing they can do to protect their property - but now there is !

This page will help you gain a better understanding on how floods can damage your property and how products can help you in the event of a flood in your area.

Basements

If an Antiflood Barrier has been fitted, the chances are that seepage will not effect your basement, however this cannot be guaranteed. Seepage through the ground is a gradual process and is subject to a lot of variables, such as:

• Has your basement been adequately tanked? If not, what is the porosity of the ground?

• Do you have cracked or damaged drains?

• There are many, many more factors that can also take effect.

Suspended Floors

This is the same as with basements, with the exception that the area beneath the floor is unlikely to have been tanked. A sump situated roughly at the centre of the house could be used in conjunction with a pump to remove any collected water. It would, however, not be advisable to set the sump too deep as penetration through the water table could occur and this would not be good in the long term.

If you do decide to install a sump, as with many building projects, it is recommended that you use a professional to complete the work.

Air Bricks

Over the years, ground levels around external walls tend to rise. Maybe a patio or pathway has been built higher than the recommended 6 inches below damp proof course level? Whatever the reason, you may find yourself with a potential water entry point. If the Antiflood Barrier has been fitted, air bricks will usually be protected.

There are, however, other factors that need to be considered: If rainwater or run-off were to collect inside the barrier, can it be pumped out quickly enough in relationship to the height of the air brick? If in doubt, consider using a device designed specifically for this purpose.

Drains

Drains are a major problem during a flood as they cannot cope and will therefore fail to work. Here follows a brief outline of protection systems that you can install yourself.

If you have installed the Antiflood Barrier, water from the outside will be greatly reduced if not stopped completely. The next step is to tackle the drains in order of priority. The lower the drain in relation to the floor level the greater the need for action. These levels will always be affected in relationship to the flood level and will change inside the barrier only if and when water is discharged via the WC, bath, basin, sink rainwater.

Manholes

It is usually possible to put a plug in the manhole to stop backfeed from mains sewers etc. You can also use the manhole as a collection sump inside the barrier It is advisable to employ a redundancy brace to ensure the plug stays firmly located in the drain. This ensures that if the bung is not located correctly or tightened sufficiently, it will not be forced out by backfeed pressure. A simple piece of 6" x 2" laid in the channel will usually suffice.

Gullies

If your gullies are connected to the main drainage or tank, as the flood advances the water will come out of the gullies in relationship to the flood level. Therefore all gullies need to be sealed, although this may not be necessary if you have plugged the main drain as above. There is a range of automatic backfeed gullies but they can fail & make the whole barrier system pointless. Some products are manufactured to deal with this problem.

Sump

If you cannot use the manhole as a collection sump, a series of sumps will need to be fitted inside of the barrier in order to dispose of seepage and rainwater should the need arise. These sumps can be fitted with automatic pumps to discharge water and a manual pump can be supplied should the electrical supply fail.

Bath

If you have a bath situated on the ground floor then that would be the next affected point of entry. Logically, the lower the discharge point, the lower the seepage. Some products will seal most drains, including showers and washing machines. Once again this will not be necessary if the manhole is plugged.

WC

Next the ground floor WC. The same advice as "Bath" applies. Washing machine stand pipes, basins, sinks and so on.

Airvents

Air vents should not be an issue if the barrier system is fitted, however there are some products which can be installed where it is impractical to erect the barrier.

Ground Seepage

There is always the possibility of ground seepage. The severity of this seepage is not calculable as the volume of water seepage is governed by a great many factors. It is possible to slow down the seepage but first you have to know where it will occur and why. If your premises are of a modern construction, it is most likely that after the foundation brickwork had been built, the builders filled the void around the brickwork with all kinds of rubbish. This is a potential problem as this filled void is very seldom compacted and, as such allows the water access to a greater height in relation to the ground level, than that of compacted ground. The answer is to cover the area around the edge of the property with paving properly sealed to the walls. In some cases you may well want planting areas. These should be excavated down to the foundation slab and filled with compacted earth.

Garden soakaways are usually constructed away from the property and should be well outside the barrier. However, these soakaways are of numerous designs and can give easy access to the inside of the barrier via the drain outlet. If the property is on a soakaway ensure the drain is plugged within the barrier.

Modern drains are back filled with shingle or similar. This is also a potential entry point for water. Regardless of how much seepage you get, there is usually a pump that can cope with it.

Now you can do something to stop your home flooding and inevitably ruining your furniture -and possibly your life!

TIPS About Kitchens

About Kitchens

Because you probably will only buy a new kitchen once or twice in your life, you will need all the help you can get. Especially with the ever changing trends and the home improvement and cookery programmes on television it becomes more and more difficult to make a sound choice. This step-by-step decision planner will help you on your way to your dream kitchen.

Kitchen Plan

First it is important to choose whether you want a fitted kitchen or a freestanding kitchen. If you choose for a fitted kitchen, you will make the most of your space, as all the difficult corners can be hidden and used for storage. You can choose for flat pack, rigid or custom built to suit your needs and budget.

Choose a freestanding and you will get that individual and informal look you might have been looking for. You can use all kinds of furniture to create the ambiance you prefer. You will have to choose your furniture well though to create as much storage space as in a fitted kitchen.

Different people have different lifestyles. It is obvious that a single person or a couple will have different expectations from their kitchen than families with growing up children. Make sure the kitchen will fulfil all your needs.

Sink, preparation area and hob should never be too far apart and that the fridge should be near the entrance of the kitchen. This all will have effect on where you will plan to put your basic equipment and where the service points for water, electricity and gas will be. Keep the existing service points in mind when planning your new kitchen as rewiring and re-plumbing your kitchen will take a lot of time and money.

Kitchen Design

Because cabinet doors are the face of the kitchen, it will be very important that you choose a finish you want to look at for quite a number of years. Wood is one of the most popular choices. It can be used for a solid door, but veneer is a good alternative. Besides that, veneer will give more uniformity, as a piece of wood is cut in thin strips to cover all the doors. Wood itself is available in all kinds of colours, but it can also be glossed, painted, colour washed or waxed to give it the finish you prefer.

Laminate cupboard doors have endless possibilities in colour, texture and shine. They are easy to clean and work well in a modern or classic kitchen alike, just as glass, whereas frosted glass works best in contemporary kitchens.

A worktop will receive the most wear and tear of all the surfaces in the kitchen. It has to endure hot pots and pans, knives, water and dirt. Therefore your worktop has to be made of the most durable material you can afford. Protect your worktop at all times from hot pans and knives by using trivets and chopping boards.

Laminate is very popular for kitchens and worktops, as it is cheap and it comes in a variety of colours. It is easy to transform a kitchen just by changing the worktop. Wood is great for its character, but if used for the worktop it is highly sustainable to scratching and cutting. Oil it well to protect it from stains and it will improve in character over the years to come.

Stainless steel can be shaped in any way your kitchen goes. The backsplash and the sink can be made into the same piece of steel, which makes that there are no awkward corners that will jeopardise hygiene. Granite is the most expensive material to cover your worktop with. It is highly durable, it doesn't scratch or burn and it keeps its colour. It's a natural material that will give great character to your kitchen. And last but not least, solid surfaces. They are hardwearing, they resist scratches, scorches and heat from hot pans, and if you do damage your surface, there are repair kits available to fix it.

Buying a Kitchen

When you go and buy a kitchen, always make sure that you get a fully itemised costing, so that you know what to be expected to pay. Never pay the full payment for your kitchen when you place your order. Purchase from someone that offers reasonable payment terms and make sure you know the terms and conditions.

Check whether the company offers a full after sales service and inspection when fitting is completed. If any questions would arise then they can be answered on the spot and maybe immediately dealt with.

Just before you decide on buying your dream kitchen, look at showroom cabinets and inspect areas that receive the heaviest wear, such as around the edges, hinges and seams, to spot any possible signs of weakness in the materials. Fully fitted showroom kitchens also give you a good idea about whether you will like certain finishes and gives you the possibility to look for different door handles, colours and materials.

Top Planning Tips

• Plan your kitchen according to your lifestyle. A family will have different expectations from a kitchen than a young couple. Keep this also in mind when planning your storage.
• Keep the existing service points in mind when planning the kitchen as rewiring and re-plumbing takes a lot of time and money.
• Think about the ventilation points when planning your kitchen. Don't plan cupboards over them.
• Decide where your sink, drainer and dishwasher need to go first as this will be the biggest unit to fit in.
• Plan the main areas (sink, food preparation and hob) close together. This will make your kitchen more efficient.
• When measuring the size of the kitchen, make sure that the exact shape of the walls is known. If there is an inwards corner in the room it will influence the shape of the worktop and the place of the wall-cupboards.
• If you decide for a two-way galley kitchen, leave enough walking space between the two galleys.
• If choosing a U-shaped kitchen, consider the floor space you will have left and maybe decide to use one of the legs of the U as a breakfast bar.
• If you like to cook with a lot of fresh vegetables or you need a big freezer, consider a big fridge/freezer at the end of your worktop for loads of storage and easy access.
• In a small and narrow kitchen you can create more space by making the wall-cupboards taller rather than having them protruding outwards. You will create more headspace and the kitchen will look wider.
• Store heavy items in the cupboards underneath the worktop.
• Store rarely used items on the highest shelves of your cupboard to keep easy accessible space free for daily use.
• Kitchens will always have drawers with all sorts of goods in it, like pens, buttons, matches and sandwich bags. To create more order, use little plastic boxes or special drawer organisers. You will find what you need much quicker.
• Store your utensils near to where you are most likely to use them. This will make your kitchen more efficient.
• Keep your worktop clutter free for a tidy look.
• To disguise a boiler you can build a spice rack in front of it. This will not take a lot of space and will be an attractive display for all your spices.
• Think about where you want your main bin to be situated. Try to integrate it in the area below the worktop to keep outlook of the kitchen clean and clutter-free.
• Don't forget to give your cookery books a place in your kitchen!