GUIDEs to install PVC Downpipes

PVC is most common form of downpipes installed by the home handyman or 'DIYer'. Below are intallation instructions for Marley brand downpipes.

You will require a hammer, hacksaw, cloth, ladder or trestles and planks, measuring tape, pencil and rule.

Marley spouting and downpipe can cope with a peak rainfall of 200 mm per hour providing they are correctly installed.

Plan area of roof served by downpipe (in square metres):-

When more than two angles occur in a system the recommended roof area served by a downpipe should be reduced by 5 square metres for each additional spouting angle.

Notes :

• Rectangular downpipes should not be used in a horizontal application, or when subjected to head pressure (for example, connected to a water tank).

• Downpipes should not be used in wall or ceiling cavities.

• If a round downpipe is being installed horizontally, care should be taken that all joints are sealed.

Downpipe installation.

Assemble downpipe, using angles if there are soffits. Where a downpipe has a socket on it the socket on the long section of the bend can be sawn off. This will enable the remaining spigot to fit into the downpipe socket.

By cutting the socket off the long end of a downpipe bend, a tight offset can be made.

Pipe and fittings should be solvent welded together with Marley MCS Welding Solvent Cement; but do not solvent weld the downpipe socket or top bend to the rainwater head outlet.

The downpipe should be fixed to the wall using three pipe clips per length. By using non-corrosive screws to fix the downpipe clips, the downpipe can be removed in the future.

Painting

After installation, Marley downpipes can be painted to any desired colour. To prepare the surface, wipe down with a bath cleaner, and thoroughly wash. Once dry, apply two coats of acrylic paint ensuring the first coat is dry prior to applying the second coat.

Maintenance

To ensure your new Marley downpipes maintain their good looks for years and years, an annual cleaning using warm soapy water and a car cleaning cloth is all that is required. Simply rinse off with clean water.

GUIDEs for Electrical Radial Circuit

Make sure you have isolated any circuit you are working on !

A Radial Circuit is a mains power circuit found in some homes to feed sockets and lighting points. It is simply a length of appropriately rated cable feeding one power point then going on to the next. The circuit terminates with the last point on it. It does not return to the consumer unit or fuse box as does the more popular circuit, the ring main.

The descriptions below apply only to a circuit for power sockets. Lighting circuits are dealt with in a separate project.

There is no limit to the number of sockets used on a radial circuit and, just like a ring main, spurs, or extra sockets, can be added. The number of spurs must not exceed the number of existing sockets. The images below are all rated for use with a radial circuit and can be bought by clicking on them.

Two types of radial circuit are permitted for socket outlets.

* 20 Amp fuse or miniature circuit breaker protection with 2.5 mm² cable can feed a floor area of not more than 50 m². The maximum length of cable is 33m.

* 30 Amp cartridge fuse to B888 or miniature circuit breaker of 20amp with a 4 mm² cable can supply a floor area no greater than 75m². The maximum length of cable to be used is cable is 38m when used with a cartridge fuse and only 33m when used with an MCB.

Radial circuits are generally used in larger buildings where, to return the cable back to the consumer unit can effectively double the cost of the installation.

As with a ring main, units and appliances which draw large amounts of current such as showers and electric cookers nut be installed on their own circuit.

Additional wiring can be added to a radial circuit to turn it into a ring main.

Important !

Please also check the rules very carefully for ring mains and radial circuits. You are limited in the length of cable you are allowed to use in both circuits and long spurs could make you exceed the limit. If this is the case you are asking the circuit to use much more energy than the circuit is designed for.

More energy = more heat and cables can catch fire. Part P of the new building regulations could involve a check on any additional circuitry by qualified electricians when you sell your home. This can affect your sale, you could be breaking the law and your house insurance may not be valid.

Please be absolutely sure you know what you are doing and get all of your work checked by a qualified electrician.

TIPS About Gun applied sealants and adhesives

When you walk into a DIY store, you will be confronted by shelves of gun applied sealants to fill gaps and glue. Unlike traditional fillers, most of these stay flexible and will not shrink, keeping gaps filled and, where relevant, waterproof. They usually are available in 'standard-sized' tubes designed to fit in a cartridge gun, this has a trigger operated piston that squeezes the sealant from the tube, through the nozzle and into the required position. There is one popular adhesive which is not in a standard length tube, it's longer and does not fit a 'standard' gun.

To choose the right sealant for the job, you need to think about which features you need in the sealant, the important features include:

• the type of material it will adhere to;

• the size of gap it will fill;

• its degree of mould resistant;

• how waterproof it is;

• whether it can be overpainted, or not;

• whether it can be used indoors and/or out of doors;

• whether it is solvent based or gives off fumes when curing;

• what it is like when it cures, i.e. solid, flexible or very flexible.

When using a sealant, always make sure that the surface is sound, dust free, and dry, the sealant is 'squeezed' onto the surfaces and it often depends on gentle surface contact to create a bond.

Types of sealants

General purpose Water based sealant

General purpose, water based sealants are sealants for indoor use, such as filling gaps along skirting boards, around door and window frames etc. They are usually supplied white as it can be over painted with emulsion or solvent-based paint as soon as the surface has cured.

Some waterproof sealants are water based.

General purpose Silicone based sealant

Silicone sealants produce a waterproof seal that can be used indoors and out. Most manufacturers offer it in white, translucence and possibly a choice of colours. These sealants give off a distinctive smell until it cures.

Kitchen and Bathroom sealant

These are usually designed to seal areas where water seepage is likely (around a sink or bath etc). They need to be waterproof and mould resistant. Usually available in white.

Frame sealant

For external use, silicone sealant is used as a water-resistant sealant and joint filler, formulated specifically to seal between wooden or UPVC door and window frames to the surrounding material. Silicone cannot be over painted but is available in a number of colours.

For internal frame sealant, water based sealant can be used and it can be over painted once the surface of the sealant has cured.

Roof and gutter sealant

An all-purpose exterior sealant that can be used to seal leaking joints in guttering and downpipes as well as stopping leaks in flat roofs. Generally it is only available in black.

Adhesives

A number of adhesives are available for application via a 'sealant' gun. They are able to provide both gap-filling and high strength adhesive in one pack. They tend to be suitable for a very wide range of materials, i.e. wood, metal, brick, plaster, ceramics, glass, plaster, concrete, uPVC etc.

Gun-free sealants

A number of sealant are now available in easy-to-use aerosol dispensers making the use of a cartridge gun unnecessary. The sealant is extruded from a nozzle when the cap on the container is depressed, giving good fingertip control.

Safety

Always read and follow the instructions on the sealant cartridge before using it.

DIY : Installing a Peephole

This is a quick and easy projects to add a little more security factor to our home. It costs less than 20 bucks in most cases and should take you about 30 minutes to install. Just follow below steps for installation :-

Note : This peephole will give you a 180-degree field of vision from the front door.

Materials:

Purchased peephole

Measuring tape and pencil

Power drill

1/8" bit

Spade bit

1. Install the peephole at a height that's convenient for you but still accessible to kids -- 5' from the ground usually works well. Make a pencil mark at the height in the direct center of your door (measure first to be exact).

2. Put on safety eyewear and then drill the hole for the peephole in two steps. First, drill a pilot hole all the way through the door usinga 1/8" drill bit (figure A).

3. To complete the drilling, attach a spade, or "paddle," bit to an electric drill. Drill only halfway through the door, using the pilot hole to get started (figure B). Then shut the door and switch the spade bit to the other side to drill completely through. Make sure the drill is nice and level. Drill only half at a time to avoid having the door splinter.

4. Place the two parts of the peephole mechanism in the hole in the door, making sure that the proper piece is facing out. Thread them together and hand-tighten the connection with one of your arms on each side of the door.

Other Tips/Related Q & A:

Q: I'm selling my home, and I'd like to increase its value. What can I do to improve the exterior of the house on a budget?

A: To improve the "curb appeal" of your home and still stay on a budget, consider planting flowers around the walkway, painting the exterior trim, or hanging something like a porch swing -- something that will make people notice your house.

Q: I've heard that salting my walkways will damage them. Is this true?

A: If you leave it on there too long, salt will damage the concrete. So sweep it off as soon as you can. Also, look into the new mixtures out there that are designed to melt the ice without damaging your concrete.

Q: I have a draft coming in under my front door. What should I do?

A: You probably need to install a doorsweep at the bottom of your door. You can buy one in the weatherproofing section of your home store, and it screws on.

TIPS : How to avoid the 'cowboy' builder

Most people tend to expect others to be honest with them, they want to 'believe' what other person say. Unfortunately, there are some people who can lie very well and promise the earth without any intention or the ability to deliver. These people are not all builder (and all builders are not these sorts of people) but building work can be expensive and stressful at the best of times and you need to select the right builder to work for you. It is not only the dishonest cowboys you want to avoid, some very honest and genuine tradesman are just not upto the job.

These guidelines are aimed at making you think before you choose a builder so that you will minimise the risk of hiring a cowboy or someone without the required skills.

Most of these guidelines can also be applied to other tradesman or organisation you are thinking of hiring for any work.

Most cowboys in any line of trade, present an image of confidence and friendliness, this can make it very hard to question their abilities and promises - but remember, it is your money that they intend to live on, so stand up for your rights - they are not doing you a personal favour if you are paying them to do the work.

Any reputable tradesman will recognise the relationship with the employer and be willing to provide evidence that they can do the work to the desired standard.

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1. Product a 'works specification'. This need be no more than some notes you have written down just listing what you need to have done, if it is a big job you may already have the plans, so the 'work specification' will already be defined. Make sure you specify who is going to be responsible for removing any rubbish and 'making good' after the work.

2. If you are using the services of an architect, the architect may be able to recommend a builder, but you do not need to use his recommendation. In fact it is sometimes better to arrange your own builder so that there is no possible conflict of interest between you, the architect and the builder. You may wish to leave the entire job in the hands of your architect; in which case, you can apply the following to your dealings with your architect.

3. Ask people you trust (family, friends, neighbours etc.) if they can recommend a builder. If they have had work done by the builder, make sure it is of a similar type to what you need (someone who can lay a good garden path, may not be the right person to build a double storey extension). Do not stop with the first recommendation, try to get 2 or 3 names.

4. Ask for a number of quotations (preferable 3 - most mortgage companies require 3 quotations if they are funding the work). Give each builder a copy of your 'works specification' and make sure that each one visits the site.

5. Ask each builder for 2 or 3 recent references (i.e. similar types of work they have carried out). Follow up the references, try and visit the work without the builder and discuss how the work went with the owners - be careful when drawing your conclusions as it is not unknown for references to actually be friends or family of the builders ! If a builder was recommended by a friend or family, ask them how they think the job went and how happy they were with the actual conduct of the builders and the finished product.

6. Having met each builder and received the quotes, you may be able make a first assessment. You may feel uncomfortable with the manner of a builder - it does not mean that they are not good builders but will you be able to work with them? And just because another builder is friendly, does not mean they will do a good job. Try to keep personal feelings out of the decision.

7. Make sure that all the quotes reflect the same work specification including site clearance, material supply etc. If one of the quotes is widely different (either higher or lower) from the other two, try to find out why. It may not reflect the standard of workmanship, a builder with little work may put in a low quote just to keep working while a busy builder who does not really need the work may put in a high quote.

8. Ask for details of the required payments. For all but small jobs, the builder may ask for payments at specific stages of the work. The payments should reflect the amount of work already completed. If the builders require any money before they arrive on site, think very hard before handing it over - advance payments may be required where custom made materials need to be purchased.

9. Some small reputable builders offer a 'labour only' service, this requires you to 'fund' the materials as the job progresses. The builders should be able to obtain trade prices for you and will be able to give you a separate quote for the materials so that you will be able to see the total cost at the outset. This method of trading can be legitimate in the UK as it enables the builders to keep their annual turnover below the VAT threshold so they do not need to register or charge for VAT. A potential drawback is that you have to fund the materials yourself as you go along (the builder normally arranges to buy them in your name); if there has been an underestimate in materials cost, you may find the cost escalating. On the other hand, you may save money if they find they have overestimated. You are unlikely to be left with any surplus material delivered.

10. If the job is a big one, ask what guarantees are offered. If it is a new house, you will need NHBC (in UK) or similar warranty cover. Ask the builders about public liability insurance, they should have cover to protect you and the general public in the event of an accident.

11. Do not be hurried into a decision, a reputable builder will always be willing to take time to discuss what you want. You may find yourself in a dilemma if a builder sets a deadline for an answer. Sometimes builders have a slack period between finishing one job and moving onto another in a couple of months time, they may legitimately offer to do yours now if you give the go ahead immediately. You may prefer to suggest moving your time-scales so that they can do their next job before coming back to you - but this may entail an increase to the quoted price because of expected inflation etc.

12. So having met the builders, seen their work and received the quotes; how do you make the choice? The 3 main factors (probably in order of importance) are:

1. Quality of workmanship.

2. Cost and time-scales.

3. The behaviour of the builders.

You have to weigh each factor individually and relative to the other two. You may feel that a particular builder is automatically excluded because of your assessment of any factor. All other factors being equal, the final decision may be based on the cost or time-scale - remember that you do not always get a better job by paying more money. You may find that you are unhappy with all the builders you have asked to quote - remember that you do not need to use any of the builders you have asked to quote; you can start all over again by asking other builders for references and quotes.

13. When you have decided on a builder, draw up a written agreement specifying:

- The work to be carried out.

- When the work is to commence and be completed.

- The cost of the work and when/how it is to be paid. If the job is being funded by a loan which will be released to you at fixed stages of the work, make sure that the builder understands this and the actual points at which funds will be released.

- Try to include a 'retention'; part of the price which will be paid (say) 1 month after completion of the work subject to satisfaction. This will allow you to uncover small 'defects' in the work after the builders have left the site and gives the builder an incentive to fix them quickly.

- Any 'local agreements' - such as use of washing/toilet facilities, disposal of waste etc.

14. When the work has started, you will need to 'work' with the builder. Record the progress of the work, keep a note of all instructions you give the builder and payments you make. You should feel free to ask the builders what they are doing - any two people may interpret a work specification in different ways; so make sure that they are doing what you want.

15. Any extension or other major job will cause tension and stress as it usually affects your home and it is unlikely to progress to plan. Remember:

- Any building work around the house will cause a certain amount of inconvenience to the occupiers, you have to accept it.

- Do not just ask the builders to do small addition items of work, you could find them on the final bill. If you need to change your work specification, make sure that it is agreed in writing along with any cost/time implication.

- If you have a problem with a particular workman - his behaviour, workmanship or attitude - tread carefully! If you cannot suppress your feelings, try to have a quiet word with the site foreman or boss.

- If you agreed stage payments, pay them on time (providing that the work has be done). If a dispute arises, talk to the builder and try to reach a compromise.

- If you have problems with your loan provider, keep the builder informed.

- Maintain an 'overall' view of the job, do not focus on one or two elements. If the builder is 'ahead' on parts of the job, this can compensate for an area which is running behind schedule.

- No matter how well planned a job may be, they can never take account of the unforeseen (illness, weather, uncovering a mine shaft etc.), so make allowances for any such factors which the builder encounters.

TIPS About Timber's Rotting Problems

Timber - rotting problems

Every house uses timber in its construction or decoration, and while it can last a long time, it is a died material and nature has various methods of making it decay unless it is looked after. Providing it is well maintained, timber will last many life times. Below two areas of timber rot found in the UK are addressed - dry rot and wet rot.

Dry Rot

Dry-rot fungus is often thought of as a building cancer, rampaging through buildings and rapidly destroying any timber in its path. The fungus, which thrives in moist unventilated conditions, will penetrate brickwork to get to more timber and can cause widespread destruction of structural timbers, skirting boards and door frames, and wood flooring.

In short, the fungus can be thought of as 'living in masonry and eating wood', and because the fungus thrives in damp, unventilated conditions, it can occur in the areas of a property that are not often seen, such as floor voids, or behind timber panelling, so damage may be extensive before the attack is discovered.

What to look for:

Initially the fungus appears as off-white felt-like or cotton-wool like sheets on brickwork and timber, and, in later stages, can develop fungal strands as thick as your finger. Where the fungus is exposed to light, it often has a lemon-yellowish tinge.

Damage is often confined to timber but large flat mushroom-like fruiting bodies can easily grow through finishes such as plaster or paint. These fruiting bodies may be the first visible sign of a problem, and they produce numerous spores which are normally brick-red in colour.

Entirely dry-rot decayed timber can be crumbled between your fingers. The fungus leaves deep cracks running across the grain, and there is often evidence of off-white sheets of the fungus on the wood.

Treatment:

The term dry-rot came from the belief that the fungus is able to transport moisture from a source many metres away, to attack dry wood. In fact, although the fungus can transport moisture over several metres, it cannot transport anywhere near enough moisture to attack wood that is otherwise dry.

Treating dry-rot can involve removal of the affected timber (including all timber for a metre beyond the visible signs of the fungus), and extensive chemical fungicide treatments for all adjacent timber and the brickwork of any contaminated walls and plaster. However, this approach is expensive and unnecessary.

The modern approach is to use environmental controls, such as isolation and ventilation, which ensure that the damp, unventilated conditions required by dry-rot do not occur. The techniques are simple ways to ensure that the timber in a property does not become damp enough for dry-rot to attack, for instance replacing dry-rot decayed joists with new timber using joist hangers, instead of building them back into the brickwork, or by using ventilated skirting board details to encourage ventilation of a floor void.

Replacement door frames should have a strip of damp-proof membrane around the outside, to fully isolate them from damp or potentially damp brickwork, so the timber would never become damp enough for dry-rot to 'eat'.

If you have dry rot, it is probably best to have the problem looked at, and corrective action taken by a reputable specialist firm, so that you have a guarantee if the problems were to return.

Wet Rot

Compared with dry rot, wet rot is hardly a problem ! It is basically the timber decaying naturally in the presence of high levels of moisture. There is almost always a structural defect causing the problem, it may be that the wall adjacent to the timber is suffering from damp, or water collecting on the timber. Any structural problem must be tackled at the same time as the timber is treated otherwise the problem is likely to reoccur. The problem may just be damaged paint finish on the timber allowing the actual wood to absorb excessive moisture. Damage is normally limited to the timber although the original structural problem may also cause other areas to be affected by damp (such as plaster or just decorations).

What to look for:

Check vulnerable areas of timber, such as window and door frames, for signs of rot. The bottom of frames is more susceptible to rot where water can collect or the wall/floor is suffering from damp. If the paint finish is damaged, this can increase the risk of wet rot. However, although the paint may look sound, the timber underneath may be rotting from the back. You will often see a professional builder push a thin bladed knife into painted timber frames, the blade should stop after a very short distance; if it goes in upto the handle, it is a almost certainly a sign of rot behind the paint. Timber suffering from wet rot will feel spongy (even through a coat of paint) and look darker than the surrounding timber. When dry, the timber will easily crack and crumble into fine particles. Timber in the roof can also be at risk especially where there is roof damage allowing rainwater to run onto the roof timbers.

Prevention:

Ensure that all external timber frames are adequately painted to protect the timber from frontal ingress of water.

Be aware of any damp walls and address the problem, it could be a missing/damaged damp proof course (dpc), a bridged dpc or a bridged cavity. If necessary seek expert advice as the symptom may be just a sign of a bigger problem.

Make sure that any soil and other debris is cleared away from around the bottom of timber frames.

Check the roof space for the ingress of water, you may not see daylight through a hole in the roof, the water could be running down the underfelt behind the tiles onto timber some distance away from the hole. When it is raining, go into the roof with a torch, the shining of water on a timber or felt normally stand out very easily.

Other favoured places for wet rot are under the kitchen sink, bath, shower, washing basins, toilet and behind the washing machine etc.; all areas where a small leak from either a water supply or drain could go unnoticed for a long time but where timber could become saturated with water.

Treatment:

First of all treat any structural problem, there is no point in repairing the damage to the timber if it is going to reappear.

If wet rot occurs in structural timbers (such as roof trusses, floor joists), expert advice should be sought as the implication for structural integrity must be established.

In other areas, the rotten timbers should be removed and replaced; if the damaged area is fairly small, it can be cut away and a new piece of timber joined to that remaining. If the damage is confined to a very small area, an epoxy based repair kit can be used to fill the damaged area once it has been cut back to sound timber and the new surface of the wood treated with a suitable primer. Preservative tablets are available which are inserted into the timber adjacent to the repaired area to protect the timber 'from within'. If there is any doubt that the structural problem has been eliminated, the new and adjoining timber should be treated with a proprietary wet rot treatment before redecorating.

After repair, external timbers should be protected with adequate coats of paint or some other suitable timber treatment/preservative.

DIY : Laminate Flooring

In today's trend of homely yet modern design is plenty of space for laminate flooring. The ease of maintenance and hygienic properties of this type of flooring are just two of the reasons that more and more people choose to go 'laminate'. It will be able to give you the feel of a wooden floor, without having to spend bags of money. And nowadays it is so easy to lay it yourself!

With the development of the click-and-go laminates, you really don't need to be a professional to be able to lay your own floor. Which saves you a lot of money! In this guide we will give you a few handy pointers to laying your own laminate floor and how to care for it.

What is laminate flooring?

Laminate is a type of flooring that exists of different layers of material that all have different qualities. From top to bottom, in a typical laminate floor there are: a decorative surface (made of a resin-based melamine that is hard wearing), a wood-based core (which is the main component of a laminate floor), and a backing that is bonded to the underside of the core, which gives it its rigidity.

Laminate flooring comes in all sorts of designs, mainly copying wood patterns and is produced in rectangular plank shape. But recently new designs have been put on the market, imitating slate and tiled flooring. Therefore these laminates have a square shape, but will still have the same main features of laminate flooring, namely durability, ease of maintenance and ease of fitting.

Which flooring to choose?

There are different types of laminate flooring, but both of them work with the tongue-and-groove principle and both of them are 'floating systems', which means that the floor is not attached to the under-floor, but is resting on the under-floor. First of all, there are two methods of putting the floor together: with glue and without glue. Glued flooring is put together by putting a bead of glue between the tongue and the groove. Glueless flooring is a system by which the panels are clicked together and gets more and more popular every day, as it is quicker and cleaner than the glued system. It is also possible to 'unclick' the panels and take them with you when you move.

Laminate flooring comes in a lot of different qualities, thickness and water resistancy. Choose the best flooring you can afford and make sure the flooring you choose is appropriate for the room you're going to put it in. For example, you best use waterproof laminate flooring for the bathroom and the kitchen! Have a look around your local DIY stores, comparing qualities and prices to make sure you make the right choice.

Tools and materials that you will need

• Laminate flooring (!). Be sure you check and double check the size of your room and buy 5% more than you think you need. You will always need more for cutting and nobody likes going back to the DIY shed for one pack of planks! Besides that, when you do return, they might not have your colour match anymore!

• Underlay (to make the floor sound proof and to provide insulation). Take 5% extra of this as well.

• Edging trim (a laminate flooring is not fixed anywhere, edging trim is used to keep it in place along the sides and to provide a neat finish). Take some more of this as well, as you will always have to cut around funny corners you hadn't anticipated.

• Tape measure

• Mask and goggles

• Scissors

• Circular saw/Jigsaw

• Handsaw

• Spirit level

• Square

• Nails/screws etc.

Tools and materials that you might need

When you have a concrete sub-floor:

• Chisel

• Hammer

• Levelling compound

• Bucket

• Damp-proof membrane (for when you have tiles, asphalt/concrete or vinyl as your sub-floor)

When you have a wooden sub-floor:

• Hammer

• Detector for pipes and electricity cables

• Plane (for protruding areas)

• Filler or levelling compound (for holes and hollow areas)

• Pipe covers to neatly finish flooring around pipes

How to start

First of all you have to condition the flooring to the room's temperature and humidity. Leave it in its packing and lay it horizontally (to prevent bending of the laminate) for at least 48 hours before you start to lay it.

Remove all the flooring you will not need anymore (like carpets, etc.). Leave only the sub-floor. You will now have the opportunity to access any under-floor electrics and plumbing, so take it! It will save you a lot of time in the long run.

Determine whether your floor is level enough to start adding the underlay or whether you have to level it out first. Important! Not taking enough time to level the floor at this stage will later surface in a number of problems, like bending and warping of the boards and a general unevenness of the floor. This will reduce the enjoyment you will have from your floor and will also shorten its life expectancy. A floor is considered level when difference in height is less than 1mm over a metre.

To level a concrete sub-floor, you will use your hammer and chisel to chip away the protruding areas, and your levelling compound to fill any gaps. However, if they floor is generally not level, it is best to apply the levelling compound over the whole area, which will give a perfectly smooth finish all-over. A damp-proof membrane now has to be put in place according to the composition of the sub-floor.

A wooden sub-floor needs to checked on protruding nails and loose floorboards. A plane can be used for any uneven boards. Filler for smaller areas and levelling compound for larger areas can be used to even out the floor.

What next?

Put the under-floor down according to the instructions on the packet. As soon as you've done this, check whether the door will clear the final height of your floor by putting a laminate floorboard against the door. If the door gets stuck on the floorboard, now is the moment to remove the door and sand or plane away the excess in order to let the door open properly.

Decide which way you would like to have your floor laid. It is recommended that the floor is laid at a 90o angle across the floorboards (if you have any) in order to reinforce the joints. Another solution might be to first apply a hardboard underfloor to the floorboards. This way it doesn't matter which way you lay your laminate.

Use two spacers in one corner of the room in order to leave a gap between the floorboards and the wall, and lay your first board against it. Make sure it is aligned properly with the wall. Now you can start clicking the boards together until you get to the end of the first row, making sure you use spacers all along the entire wall.

To cut the last board off at the correct point, place the board next to the flooring that is already in place. Make sure you allow for the spacers that need to be placed at the end of the row.

If the cut-off of the last board of the previous row is longer than 300mm, you can use it to start the next row. It is important to create a staggered effect, as the boards shouldn't end at the same place.

It is now easy to click and fit the biggest area of your room, and quite quickly it will look like you're creating something! The only areas you really have to take care of are around doors and pipes. Try to fit your floor as neatly as possible around your door mouldings. You might have to carefully saw into the moulding to ensure a snug fit. Use a laminate floorboard as a guide to show you how much you need to cut away. For pipes you have to measure the distance into the floorboard where the pipes will emerge (taking care to allow for a gap between the boards and the wall). Also measure the width of the pipe. Use a jigsaw to cut out the area around the pipe, starting at the edge of the board. This way you can remove the bit where the pipe will come through the board, and you can replace the bit behind the pipe (using a bit of glue to hold it in place). Use pipe covers to neatly cover around the pipe.

After removing the spacers from around the floor, use edging trim around the room to neatly finish off the floor.

Now you just have to give it a sweep and you're ready!

Top tips

• Have a good look around your local DIY sheds before you commit yourself to a particular type of flooring. Nowadays there are a lot of different designs and colours available, and there are quite a few offers on laminate flooring, so shop around and get yourself a good deal!

• A shopping list is always a good idea!

• Measure measure measure before you go to your DIY shed. And even then buy about 5% more than you need. Especially if you've never done laminate flooring before it helps if you don't need to worry about mis-cutting a few boards. You don't want to go back for one extra pack just because you couldn't be bothered with it in the first place!

• Always buy the right flooring for the right environment. Check whether the floor will be water resistant when you want to apply it to your kitchen or bathroom.

• Plan any electrical or plumbing work ahead. When you remove your carpet or old floor, you have the easiest access to the wires and pipes under the floorboards, so do it before you lay your new floor!

• Check whether the spacers are included in the pack of floorboards you're buying. They are handy tools to keep your floor in place while you're fitting.

• Take your time while fitting the floor! Although you really want to finish it tonight, deep in your heart you know the floor will look a lot better when you sleep on it and look at it again with fresh eyes the following morning!

• If you decide to go for a glued laminate floor, please keep the drying times in mind. This mainly determines the strength of the flooring.

• If you decide to take the floor with you when you move (only possible with the glueless variant), be careful with unlocking the boards. The tongues snap quite easily if treated roughly.

• Use a special laminate floor cleaner to optimise the shine and durability of your floor. Do not use any abrasive or bleach-based products.

TIPS About DIY Safety (Do's & Don'ts)

The home can be a highly dangerous area so every diy'er needs to take some precaution and, more importantly, use common sense. The following are some basic principles for the do it yourself person.

Safety DO's

• Always keep safely in mind before you do any diy activity, use caution, care, and good judgement - if in doubt, don't !

• Always read the labels on cans containing paints, solvents, and other products; AND always follow the guidelines and any other warnings.

• Always read the manufacturer's instructions (especially the warnings) before using any tool, especially power tools with cutting blades/bits.

• Always pay deliberate attention to how a tool works, if you understand it's operation, you are less likely to cause injury. • Always know and accept the limitations of your tools - use the appropriate tool for the task. Do not try to use a tool for anything it is not designed to do.

• Always remove the key from any drill chuck (hand or stand mounted) after you have removed/fitted a drill bit. Do not leave the key in the chuck even when the drill is switched off.

• Always wear the appropriate protection for the job in hand. This may involve gloves, facemasks (to filter dust etc.) and/or eye protection.

• Always keep your body (especially hands) away from the business ends of power tools using blades, cutters, and bits.

• Always make sure that any tool adjustment is secured before using the tool - it is always better to double check an adjustment - e.g., always check the fence on a saw bench - this will avoid possible injury and scraped material.

• Always be sure that the electrical supply is safe before using it; do not overload any circuit. Make sure all power tools, extension cables and electrical outlets are serviceable and undamaged. Do not use power tools in wet conditions.

• Always check for possible cables/pipework before drilling or cutting 'blind' into any wall or other surface. Take care when you cannot see the reverse side of what you are drilling or cutting.

• Always use special care when using a saw bench; older benches may not have the latest safest features (blade guard, safety cut-out etc.). Avoid sawing short pieces if you can, as these can be hard to keep a firm grip of..

• Always clamp small workpieces firmly to a bench or other work surface when using a power tool on them.

• Always remember that things can go wrong very quickly and the body's reaction will not always be quick enough.

• Always use both hands where a tool is designed to be used two handed.

• Always ensure that the work area is adequately lit.

• Always check your local building regulations before carrying out any new construction or major remodelling. The regulations are intended to avoid safety hazards and should be observed - they should not be considered obstructions to be circumvented.

• Always check ladders and steps before use, make sure the rungs and sides are undamaged.

• Always check the security of a ladder or set of steps before you start to climb.

• Always be aware and alert!

Safety DONT's

• Never wear loose clothing, hanging hair or jewellery when using power tools.

• Never try to use a tool (especially a power tool) for any task it was not designed to do.

• Never work with power tools when you are under the influence of alcohol or drugs or are tired. If in doubt - don't. Any of these factors can impair judgement of your ability, your physical state and general safety aspects - if always better to delay a job than risk serious injury.

• Never use a power tool which is damaged in any way (case, switch or cable etc.). If it starts to make an odd noise or emit smells - stop and investigate.

• Never cut small, loose pieces of wood, metal or other material using a power tool - small off-cuts which you cannot hold or secure, will tend to fly off with potential for injury.

• Never change a drill bit, router cutter or saw blade or make any adjustment to a 'cutting' power tool - until the power cable has been unplugged. Do not rely only upon the switch on the tool or outlet.

• Never use power tools is you are at risk of overbalancing, reposition any ladder, scaffold etc. to make the job comfortable.

• Never work with blunt tools (saws, drill bits, cutters etc.). Sharpen the tools yourself, have them sharpened, or throw them away and use a new tool.

• Never use a power tool on a workpiece which is not firmly secured.

• Never drill or cut 'blind' into a surface before checking the possible location of electrical cables or pipework.

• Never saw a large workpiece unless it is well supported both sides of the cut or there is someone else to support the off-cut.

• Never saw a workpiece supported on any part of your body (or anyone else's body !).

• Never carry sharp tools in your pocket. If you want to carry such tools, use a special-purpose tool belt.

• Never relay on your weight to stabilise a ladder or mobile steps, if necessary get someone to stand at the bottom or use stabilisers.

• Never overreach when working on a ladder or steps, always re-position the ladder/steps.