GUIDEs to install PVC Downpipes

PVC is most common form of downpipes installed by the home handyman or 'DIYer'. Below are intallation instructions for Marley brand downpipes.

You will require a hammer, hacksaw, cloth, ladder or trestles and planks, measuring tape, pencil and rule.

Marley spouting and downpipe can cope with a peak rainfall of 200 mm per hour providing they are correctly installed.

Plan area of roof served by downpipe (in square metres):-

When more than two angles occur in a system the recommended roof area served by a downpipe should be reduced by 5 square metres for each additional spouting angle.

Notes :

• Rectangular downpipes should not be used in a horizontal application, or when subjected to head pressure (for example, connected to a water tank).

• Downpipes should not be used in wall or ceiling cavities.

• If a round downpipe is being installed horizontally, care should be taken that all joints are sealed.

Downpipe installation.

Assemble downpipe, using angles if there are soffits. Where a downpipe has a socket on it the socket on the long section of the bend can be sawn off. This will enable the remaining spigot to fit into the downpipe socket.

By cutting the socket off the long end of a downpipe bend, a tight offset can be made.

Pipe and fittings should be solvent welded together with Marley MCS Welding Solvent Cement; but do not solvent weld the downpipe socket or top bend to the rainwater head outlet.

The downpipe should be fixed to the wall using three pipe clips per length. By using non-corrosive screws to fix the downpipe clips, the downpipe can be removed in the future.

Painting

After installation, Marley downpipes can be painted to any desired colour. To prepare the surface, wipe down with a bath cleaner, and thoroughly wash. Once dry, apply two coats of acrylic paint ensuring the first coat is dry prior to applying the second coat.

Maintenance

To ensure your new Marley downpipes maintain their good looks for years and years, an annual cleaning using warm soapy water and a car cleaning cloth is all that is required. Simply rinse off with clean water.

GUIDEs for Electrical Radial Circuit

Make sure you have isolated any circuit you are working on !

A Radial Circuit is a mains power circuit found in some homes to feed sockets and lighting points. It is simply a length of appropriately rated cable feeding one power point then going on to the next. The circuit terminates with the last point on it. It does not return to the consumer unit or fuse box as does the more popular circuit, the ring main.

The descriptions below apply only to a circuit for power sockets. Lighting circuits are dealt with in a separate project.

There is no limit to the number of sockets used on a radial circuit and, just like a ring main, spurs, or extra sockets, can be added. The number of spurs must not exceed the number of existing sockets. The images below are all rated for use with a radial circuit and can be bought by clicking on them.

Two types of radial circuit are permitted for socket outlets.

* 20 Amp fuse or miniature circuit breaker protection with 2.5 mm² cable can feed a floor area of not more than 50 m². The maximum length of cable is 33m.

* 30 Amp cartridge fuse to B888 or miniature circuit breaker of 20amp with a 4 mm² cable can supply a floor area no greater than 75m². The maximum length of cable to be used is cable is 38m when used with a cartridge fuse and only 33m when used with an MCB.

Radial circuits are generally used in larger buildings where, to return the cable back to the consumer unit can effectively double the cost of the installation.

As with a ring main, units and appliances which draw large amounts of current such as showers and electric cookers nut be installed on their own circuit.

Additional wiring can be added to a radial circuit to turn it into a ring main.

Important !

Please also check the rules very carefully for ring mains and radial circuits. You are limited in the length of cable you are allowed to use in both circuits and long spurs could make you exceed the limit. If this is the case you are asking the circuit to use much more energy than the circuit is designed for.

More energy = more heat and cables can catch fire. Part P of the new building regulations could involve a check on any additional circuitry by qualified electricians when you sell your home. This can affect your sale, you could be breaking the law and your house insurance may not be valid.

Please be absolutely sure you know what you are doing and get all of your work checked by a qualified electrician.

TIPS About Gun applied sealants and adhesives

When you walk into a DIY store, you will be confronted by shelves of gun applied sealants to fill gaps and glue. Unlike traditional fillers, most of these stay flexible and will not shrink, keeping gaps filled and, where relevant, waterproof. They usually are available in 'standard-sized' tubes designed to fit in a cartridge gun, this has a trigger operated piston that squeezes the sealant from the tube, through the nozzle and into the required position. There is one popular adhesive which is not in a standard length tube, it's longer and does not fit a 'standard' gun.

To choose the right sealant for the job, you need to think about which features you need in the sealant, the important features include:

• the type of material it will adhere to;

• the size of gap it will fill;

• its degree of mould resistant;

• how waterproof it is;

• whether it can be overpainted, or not;

• whether it can be used indoors and/or out of doors;

• whether it is solvent based or gives off fumes when curing;

• what it is like when it cures, i.e. solid, flexible or very flexible.

When using a sealant, always make sure that the surface is sound, dust free, and dry, the sealant is 'squeezed' onto the surfaces and it often depends on gentle surface contact to create a bond.

Types of sealants

General purpose Water based sealant

General purpose, water based sealants are sealants for indoor use, such as filling gaps along skirting boards, around door and window frames etc. They are usually supplied white as it can be over painted with emulsion or solvent-based paint as soon as the surface has cured.

Some waterproof sealants are water based.

General purpose Silicone based sealant

Silicone sealants produce a waterproof seal that can be used indoors and out. Most manufacturers offer it in white, translucence and possibly a choice of colours. These sealants give off a distinctive smell until it cures.

Kitchen and Bathroom sealant

These are usually designed to seal areas where water seepage is likely (around a sink or bath etc). They need to be waterproof and mould resistant. Usually available in white.

Frame sealant

For external use, silicone sealant is used as a water-resistant sealant and joint filler, formulated specifically to seal between wooden or UPVC door and window frames to the surrounding material. Silicone cannot be over painted but is available in a number of colours.

For internal frame sealant, water based sealant can be used and it can be over painted once the surface of the sealant has cured.

Roof and gutter sealant

An all-purpose exterior sealant that can be used to seal leaking joints in guttering and downpipes as well as stopping leaks in flat roofs. Generally it is only available in black.

Adhesives

A number of adhesives are available for application via a 'sealant' gun. They are able to provide both gap-filling and high strength adhesive in one pack. They tend to be suitable for a very wide range of materials, i.e. wood, metal, brick, plaster, ceramics, glass, plaster, concrete, uPVC etc.

Gun-free sealants

A number of sealant are now available in easy-to-use aerosol dispensers making the use of a cartridge gun unnecessary. The sealant is extruded from a nozzle when the cap on the container is depressed, giving good fingertip control.

Safety

Always read and follow the instructions on the sealant cartridge before using it.

DIY : Installing a Peephole

This is a quick and easy projects to add a little more security factor to our home. It costs less than 20 bucks in most cases and should take you about 30 minutes to install. Just follow below steps for installation :-

Note : This peephole will give you a 180-degree field of vision from the front door.

Materials:

Purchased peephole

Measuring tape and pencil

Power drill

1/8" bit

Spade bit

1. Install the peephole at a height that's convenient for you but still accessible to kids -- 5' from the ground usually works well. Make a pencil mark at the height in the direct center of your door (measure first to be exact).

2. Put on safety eyewear and then drill the hole for the peephole in two steps. First, drill a pilot hole all the way through the door usinga 1/8" drill bit (figure A).

3. To complete the drilling, attach a spade, or "paddle," bit to an electric drill. Drill only halfway through the door, using the pilot hole to get started (figure B). Then shut the door and switch the spade bit to the other side to drill completely through. Make sure the drill is nice and level. Drill only half at a time to avoid having the door splinter.

4. Place the two parts of the peephole mechanism in the hole in the door, making sure that the proper piece is facing out. Thread them together and hand-tighten the connection with one of your arms on each side of the door.

Other Tips/Related Q & A:

Q: I'm selling my home, and I'd like to increase its value. What can I do to improve the exterior of the house on a budget?

A: To improve the "curb appeal" of your home and still stay on a budget, consider planting flowers around the walkway, painting the exterior trim, or hanging something like a porch swing -- something that will make people notice your house.

Q: I've heard that salting my walkways will damage them. Is this true?

A: If you leave it on there too long, salt will damage the concrete. So sweep it off as soon as you can. Also, look into the new mixtures out there that are designed to melt the ice without damaging your concrete.

Q: I have a draft coming in under my front door. What should I do?

A: You probably need to install a doorsweep at the bottom of your door. You can buy one in the weatherproofing section of your home store, and it screws on.

TIPS : How to avoid the 'cowboy' builder

Most people tend to expect others to be honest with them, they want to 'believe' what other person say. Unfortunately, there are some people who can lie very well and promise the earth without any intention or the ability to deliver. These people are not all builder (and all builders are not these sorts of people) but building work can be expensive and stressful at the best of times and you need to select the right builder to work for you. It is not only the dishonest cowboys you want to avoid, some very honest and genuine tradesman are just not upto the job.

These guidelines are aimed at making you think before you choose a builder so that you will minimise the risk of hiring a cowboy or someone without the required skills.

Most of these guidelines can also be applied to other tradesman or organisation you are thinking of hiring for any work.

Most cowboys in any line of trade, present an image of confidence and friendliness, this can make it very hard to question their abilities and promises - but remember, it is your money that they intend to live on, so stand up for your rights - they are not doing you a personal favour if you are paying them to do the work.

Any reputable tradesman will recognise the relationship with the employer and be willing to provide evidence that they can do the work to the desired standard.

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1. Product a 'works specification'. This need be no more than some notes you have written down just listing what you need to have done, if it is a big job you may already have the plans, so the 'work specification' will already be defined. Make sure you specify who is going to be responsible for removing any rubbish and 'making good' after the work.

2. If you are using the services of an architect, the architect may be able to recommend a builder, but you do not need to use his recommendation. In fact it is sometimes better to arrange your own builder so that there is no possible conflict of interest between you, the architect and the builder. You may wish to leave the entire job in the hands of your architect; in which case, you can apply the following to your dealings with your architect.

3. Ask people you trust (family, friends, neighbours etc.) if they can recommend a builder. If they have had work done by the builder, make sure it is of a similar type to what you need (someone who can lay a good garden path, may not be the right person to build a double storey extension). Do not stop with the first recommendation, try to get 2 or 3 names.

4. Ask for a number of quotations (preferable 3 - most mortgage companies require 3 quotations if they are funding the work). Give each builder a copy of your 'works specification' and make sure that each one visits the site.

5. Ask each builder for 2 or 3 recent references (i.e. similar types of work they have carried out). Follow up the references, try and visit the work without the builder and discuss how the work went with the owners - be careful when drawing your conclusions as it is not unknown for references to actually be friends or family of the builders ! If a builder was recommended by a friend or family, ask them how they think the job went and how happy they were with the actual conduct of the builders and the finished product.

6. Having met each builder and received the quotes, you may be able make a first assessment. You may feel uncomfortable with the manner of a builder - it does not mean that they are not good builders but will you be able to work with them? And just because another builder is friendly, does not mean they will do a good job. Try to keep personal feelings out of the decision.

7. Make sure that all the quotes reflect the same work specification including site clearance, material supply etc. If one of the quotes is widely different (either higher or lower) from the other two, try to find out why. It may not reflect the standard of workmanship, a builder with little work may put in a low quote just to keep working while a busy builder who does not really need the work may put in a high quote.

8. Ask for details of the required payments. For all but small jobs, the builder may ask for payments at specific stages of the work. The payments should reflect the amount of work already completed. If the builders require any money before they arrive on site, think very hard before handing it over - advance payments may be required where custom made materials need to be purchased.

9. Some small reputable builders offer a 'labour only' service, this requires you to 'fund' the materials as the job progresses. The builders should be able to obtain trade prices for you and will be able to give you a separate quote for the materials so that you will be able to see the total cost at the outset. This method of trading can be legitimate in the UK as it enables the builders to keep their annual turnover below the VAT threshold so they do not need to register or charge for VAT. A potential drawback is that you have to fund the materials yourself as you go along (the builder normally arranges to buy them in your name); if there has been an underestimate in materials cost, you may find the cost escalating. On the other hand, you may save money if they find they have overestimated. You are unlikely to be left with any surplus material delivered.

10. If the job is a big one, ask what guarantees are offered. If it is a new house, you will need NHBC (in UK) or similar warranty cover. Ask the builders about public liability insurance, they should have cover to protect you and the general public in the event of an accident.

11. Do not be hurried into a decision, a reputable builder will always be willing to take time to discuss what you want. You may find yourself in a dilemma if a builder sets a deadline for an answer. Sometimes builders have a slack period between finishing one job and moving onto another in a couple of months time, they may legitimately offer to do yours now if you give the go ahead immediately. You may prefer to suggest moving your time-scales so that they can do their next job before coming back to you - but this may entail an increase to the quoted price because of expected inflation etc.

12. So having met the builders, seen their work and received the quotes; how do you make the choice? The 3 main factors (probably in order of importance) are:

1. Quality of workmanship.

2. Cost and time-scales.

3. The behaviour of the builders.

You have to weigh each factor individually and relative to the other two. You may feel that a particular builder is automatically excluded because of your assessment of any factor. All other factors being equal, the final decision may be based on the cost or time-scale - remember that you do not always get a better job by paying more money. You may find that you are unhappy with all the builders you have asked to quote - remember that you do not need to use any of the builders you have asked to quote; you can start all over again by asking other builders for references and quotes.

13. When you have decided on a builder, draw up a written agreement specifying:

- The work to be carried out.

- When the work is to commence and be completed.

- The cost of the work and when/how it is to be paid. If the job is being funded by a loan which will be released to you at fixed stages of the work, make sure that the builder understands this and the actual points at which funds will be released.

- Try to include a 'retention'; part of the price which will be paid (say) 1 month after completion of the work subject to satisfaction. This will allow you to uncover small 'defects' in the work after the builders have left the site and gives the builder an incentive to fix them quickly.

- Any 'local agreements' - such as use of washing/toilet facilities, disposal of waste etc.

14. When the work has started, you will need to 'work' with the builder. Record the progress of the work, keep a note of all instructions you give the builder and payments you make. You should feel free to ask the builders what they are doing - any two people may interpret a work specification in different ways; so make sure that they are doing what you want.

15. Any extension or other major job will cause tension and stress as it usually affects your home and it is unlikely to progress to plan. Remember:

- Any building work around the house will cause a certain amount of inconvenience to the occupiers, you have to accept it.

- Do not just ask the builders to do small addition items of work, you could find them on the final bill. If you need to change your work specification, make sure that it is agreed in writing along with any cost/time implication.

- If you have a problem with a particular workman - his behaviour, workmanship or attitude - tread carefully! If you cannot suppress your feelings, try to have a quiet word with the site foreman or boss.

- If you agreed stage payments, pay them on time (providing that the work has be done). If a dispute arises, talk to the builder and try to reach a compromise.

- If you have problems with your loan provider, keep the builder informed.

- Maintain an 'overall' view of the job, do not focus on one or two elements. If the builder is 'ahead' on parts of the job, this can compensate for an area which is running behind schedule.

- No matter how well planned a job may be, they can never take account of the unforeseen (illness, weather, uncovering a mine shaft etc.), so make allowances for any such factors which the builder encounters.